The Most Common Suit Alterations and What They Mean — Jacket Edition
A suit is one piece of clothing that can totally transform you. There’s a reason they’re often reserved for special occasions, or when you need to make a good first impression (i.e. a job interview).
But for a suit to really help you look your very best, it should fit you properly. That’s where your local tailor comes in.
At a suit fitting with a tailor, they will help you recognize that parts of your suit that aren’t fitting you as nicely as they should, and therefore robbing you of that clean put-together look a suit is meant to provide.
But what are all these alterations the tailor is talking about?
That’s what we’re going to be walking through today. All the different suit alterations and what they mean.
In this post we’re focusing on the jacket part of a suit, and will tackle pant alterations in an upcoming blog post. So be sure to sign up for our newsletter to catch that when it’s published. Plus you get a coupon for 10% of your next alteration at Merci’s Tailoring in Cedar Rapids! Win-win!
Without further ado, let’s get into it.
Suit jacket alterations to improve fit
The fit of your suit jacket is likely your primary motivation for visiting the tailor, so that’s what we’ll tackle first. All the alterations below focus on changing the fit of your jacket on the sleeves, shoulders, or side seams. For some general knowledge: “taking in” means making something smaller, and “letting out” means making it larger. Taking in is almost always easier, so if you have to choose between a jacket that’s a little too big or one too snug, you’re usually better off choosing the one that’s loose. That being said, there is a limit! Roughly one to two sizes. Letting out can sometimes be done, but not always, and not often by very much. The fabric has to come from somewhere, and how much a garment can be let out (suit jacket or otherwise) depends on how much fabric is inside those seams, aka “seam allowance”. Custom or bespoke suit jackets typically come with more seam allowance than those bought off the rack.
Sleeves: shorten/lengthen
Difficulty & cost: 🪡🪡
Shortening jacket sleeves is likely the most common suit alteration we do at our shop. It’s one of the most noticeable if it’s the wrong fit, and where there is the least variation when shopping for a jacket. In some cases the sleeves are too short, but there’s only about 1 inch of length we can give to sleeves. Of course there is more flexibility in shortening them.
Sleeves: shorten at the shoulder
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This alteration accomplishes the same end: shortening the sleeve, but does so by pulling the sleeve up at the shoulder. This alteration is very complicated, so not all tailors are willing to do it. Typically the sleeve only needs shortening from the shoulder if there are real buttonholes at the cuff, not just decorative button hole stitching.
Sleeves: taper
Difficulty & cost: 🪡🪡
Looking for a more fitted style? Tapering jacket sleeves can help you achieve this. This alteration gradually decreases the width of the sleeve as it goes down the seam to the cuff. You still need room to bend and raise your arms, so it can’t be too tight.
Raise shoulders
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The shoulder seams of your suit jacket should typically fall where your shoulder bone ends. If it extends beyond that point, there might be something a tailor can do about this. But again, it is a very complicated alteration and will have a price that reflects it.
Take in/out center seam
Difficulty & cost: 🪡🪡
In suit jackets, there is a seam straight down the middle of the back. Taking in this seam will remove some excess fabric from the back.
Take in/out side seams
Difficulty & cost: 🪡🪡
Just like the center seam, the seams that run along the sides of the jackets can also be altered. Depending on where the jacket is bigger on you, and by how much, a tailor may take in at the sides, or the center, or both.
Lower collar
Difficulty & cost: 🪡🪡
As it’s described, this alteration lowers the collar, which means removing fabric from where the collar meets the back of your jacket. This excess fabric can cause bunching behind your collar, and sometimes needs to be paired with taking in the center and side seams to maintain the correct proportions of the fit.
Shorten jacket
Difficulty & cost: 🪡🪡
This is shortening the bottom of the suit jacket. The ideal length is debated and depends on style. The length can be taken up, but not in all cases, and not by a lot. Proportions are important to keep in mind here, and going too short will start to interfere with the pockets.
Schedule Your Suit Tailoring
Whatever the occasion: wedding, prom, an interview, or just to look sharp, we’ll make your suit fit like it was made specifically for you. Get ready to look your best!
Suit jacket alterations for customization
Want to make your suit even more special? Or a more accurate representation of your personality? Something to show your style and make you and your suit stand out? Alterations are also a great option for customizations. Here are few options of ways you can add your own personal flair to your jacket and make something off the rack look bespoke.
Change jacket lining
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Bold jacket linings are not exclusive to bespoke suits! A tailor can exchange the lining your jacket came with, with something more interesting. A fun contrast color or bold pattern really transforms your suit, and instantly makes it look custom-made. This is one of the most fun ways to customize your jacket and although it’s going to be the priciest, it also will give the biggest wow factor. So if you’re planning a special occasion like a wedding, it can definitely be worth the extra investment at the tailor’s.
Change pocket lining
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Changing the lining can also apply to your pockets! It’s an even more subtle, almost secret way to throw in your own personality. Since pockets are much smaller than the rest of the jacket, your investment is much smaller. A simple and affordable way to add your own flair!
Elbow patches
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Originally a necessity of function and longevity, elbow patches are now a common way to add character to a jacket. We sometimes have some suede options in stock from our supplier in basic colors (your browns, tans, and navy blue). But there’s no reason you couldn’t find a different color or pattern you feel fits your style better. Be sure to choose a fabric that’s a bit sturdier and that doesn’t fray; leather, faux leather, suede, and felt are popular choices.
Change/replace buttons
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Don’t overlook the details! Buttons may seem like a small, or maybe insignificant detail on a jacket, but if you choose to make them a design element, they can really contribute to the overall look of your suit. And, it’s a very affordable way to customize your jacket.
Custom pocket square
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A pocket square can be made from just about any fabric, whether it’s to match your prom date’s or a bridesmaid’s dress, or if you want to match your new custom jacket or pocket lining.
Ready for your consultation?
Now you and your tailor will be speaking the same language! Once you’re ready for your next fitting, give us a call at (319) 377-0751, or message us on Facebook. We look forward to seeing you!
